![]() I am probably overthinking this, especially as there is so much unknown in *any* used vehicle. I think, this fact simply annihilates the above “study”. (The lowest mileage was 75k km and the lowest SOH was 89%) Recently a driver had “measured” each one with LeafSpy. Here in Budapest we have a small taxi-fleet, of Leaf-s. After arriving home, I started to use the granny charger, and after 4 months, the SOH and Hx was both ~91%. After 4 QCs (and depleting the battery 5 times) SOH raised to 100% and the Hx was _above_ 100%. When I have sit in forst, the SOH was about 90% and the Hx was 88%. It was produced in August 2013, one of the first “Gen2” 24kWh. I bought my first leaf in France, and had a trip to Hungary ~2.000kms. If you start using it from edge to edge, then the BMS will “recalibrate”. If you charge with “granny-cahrger” (10A), the BMS will get miscalibrated. Not exactly, but can be thought to: Ah”in”/Ah”nominal”. The displayed SOH value is only a calculated value. Only in 2016, Nissan finally started using NCM cathodes in their battery cells with the introduction of the 30 kWh battery version.Īnyway, I think that this information is important if you plan to buy an used Nissan Leaf. While the “lizard” battery cells remained with LMO cathodes, they had the electrolyte improved to be more heat tolerant. 24 kWh battery (model years 2015-2016): lower degradation levels (“lizard battery”).24 kWh battery (model years 2011-2014): higher degradation levels.It’s also not surprising that the 24 kWh versions are more affected by time and older Leafs show much higher degradation levels, since the “lizard” battery only arrived in 2014 with the 2015 Nissan Leaf. Why are 24 kWh batteries more affected by time? A more dense battery pack will dissipate heat more slowly. In the 24 kWh battery pack, each module has 4 cells, while in the 30 kWh variant there are 8 cells per module. Because in the same conditions the 30 kWh battery will likely be hotter. Moreover, having the battery sitting at 100 % SoC is worse with the 30 kWh version than it’s in the 24 kWh variants. Nonetheless, if you can use the battery between a SoC (State of Charge) of 80 and 20 % even better… And if you really want to take care of your battery, try to use it only between 70 and 20 %. If you want to improve your electric car battery lifespan, you should know that it’s better to charge to 80 % and discharge till 0 % than to charge to 100 % and discharge to 20 %. This means that none Nissan Leaf with the 30 kWh battery has this option. Remember that the option to limit the charge to 80 % was removed when the 2014 model year debuted (to game EPA range ratings). It’s not surprising that the 30 kWh versions suffer more from charge/discharge cycles, since they are more often charged to 100 %. Why are 30 kWh batteries more affected by charge/discharge cycles? 30 kWh batteries are more affected by charge/discharge cycles (distance traveled) while 24 kWh versions were more affected by time.The study has some interesting conclusions and I recommend you to read it (only 14 pages), but in this article I’ll focus on one: The measurements were made by using a OBD2 scanner with the Leaf Spy app. The data is from 82 Nissan Leafs with 30 kWh batteries and 201 with the 24 kWh variants. In a recent study 283 Nissan Leafs manufactured between 20, had their SoH (State of Health) measured 1.382 times.
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